DISH OF THE WEEK: Grilled Short Rib at BETONY

Every week, I document another dish that impressed and satiated me during my food adventures around New York City

SADLY, BETONY IS NOW CLOSED.

It’s around this time every year that Time Out New York puts out their annual 100 Best Dishes list. I’ve always found that a fun issue. In fact, I spent three years of my life devouring every single dish the publication has recommended.

I’ve since grown up and made my own choices, but I always do enjoy using their list as a reference point for where to eat. But I have a sneaking suspicion that no such issue will be released this year. I know the staff has changed considerably (been downsized) and they don’t seem to devote entire issues to food any longer. But hopefully I’m wrong.

Until they do release a new list, I’m still working on a few of the offerings from last year’s list. Betony is one of 2013’s most-acclaimed restaurants. The chef and general manager hail from Eleven Madison Park, which is now famous as being one of the best restaurants in the world. I’m sure Betony is not too far away from those accolades. And I was lucky enough to celebrate my brithday dinner there.

We luxuriated on lobster, truffles, and lots of butter (the homemade bread was a perfect vessel). But, of course, we had to order the grilled short rib. Not just because it is one of their most popular and highly praised dishes, but it was also on Time Out’s list.

The components of the dish have changed since they first opened, but I can vouch it’s still incredible. The fattiest (and most flavorful) part of the rib is sous vide on the bone and then grilled to ensure both soft tenderness and a smoky crisp exterior. The meat was just perfect. And around it was charred earthy lovage and bitter frisée with a deep, rich beefy jus.

But despite that magical beefy plate, my favorite part of the dish was actually served on the side. And once I got a taste for it, I spread it on everything I could (while still maintaining a level of decency at this fancy restaurant). It was smoked mashed potatoes. The rich purée had a very pelasant campfire flavor that was supported by butter and cream. I did everything in my being to not lick the bowl. But resistance, as they say, was futile.

If Time Out does release another 100 Best list and they pick more dishes as decadent and spot-on as this one, I might just have to jump in and try to eat my way through it once again.