Beer

I’M BACK FOR THE BEER (Brooklyn/Amarcord Brewery’s AMA Bionda and Greenport Harbor’s Triton at MexiQ)

My search for the best beer in New York continues….

SADLY, MEXIQ IS NOW CLOSED.

I remember when MexiQ opened in Astoria not too long and it threatened to be one more loud café/restaurant on 30th Avenue that would be perfect for people watching on the walk home from the subway. The menu was mercifully not Greek sandwiches and frappés. However, the Mexican barbecue food I tried the first month they were open was not much more exciting. The menu was ambitious, but nothing about our meal made me want to return. Except for the beer!

While this place has not really garnered many raves for the food (I still have not tried the menu since that first visit, but probably should give it a second chance), it gets much press and recognition for its impressive craft beer list. They even fill growlers from all 48 of their tap lines, which is unlike any of the other sweaty bars on this block.

We pulled up a seat at the bar of MexiQ after dinner at one of the other hot new restaurants across the street (Sugar Freak) and I went into serious freak out mode trying to decide which of the local craft beers to try. I settled on two 6 ounce flights that couldn’t have been more different.

I recognized the first one as being from Brooklyn Brewery, but it is in fact labeled Amarcord AMA Bionda. I should have maybe done my research a little more thoroughly before I ordered this because this beer is technically brewed in Italy (at the Amarcord Brewery) and therefore doesn’t fit into my criteria of being a NY beer. Oops.

It is, in theory, a collaboration with Brooklyn Brewery since Garrett Oliver had a hand in its recipe and the local brewery is importing the stuff. And I found the clear, golden ale to have a yeasty, bubble gum flavor that was reminiscent of a Belgian style wheat beer. It had subtle honey notes with a light, bitter finish.

The second beer was born a lot closer to the city, but much further than Brooklyn – Long Island!. Greenport Harbor’s Triton is a strong barleywine, which I tend to enjoy, but I found this one a bit out of balance.

It had a red amber tint with a short round, creamy head. The sweet nose was filled with cherry and honey, which I found promising, but the flavor finished with an intense alcohol bite that was a bit overwhelming. There were some malty, grassy, and fruity (more cherries) tones, but the body was overly syrup and I had a tough time with the harshness at the end.

The diversity of these two beers only hint at the possibilities in store with MexiQ’s tap line. I could have spent hours tasting all their different offerings. And while this might not be the destination for Mexican food, it sure is for craft beer. Who woulda thunk?

Is Brooklyn/Amarcord’s AMA Bionda the best beer in NY? It’s not made anywhere near the city (Italy is a bit of a commute) so the Belgian-like Italian ale is out of the running.

Is Greenport Harbor’s Triton the best beer in NY? I usually like a strong barleywine, but I found this version a bit one-note with an emphasis on the strong. 7 out of 10.

BROOKLYN BREWERY
brooklynbrewery.com/
GREENPORT HARBOR BREWING COMPANY
harborbrewing.com
MEXIQ
37-11 30th Avenue (between 37th and 38th Street)
Astoria, Queens
(718) 626-0333
mexiqny.com

AboutBrian Hoffman

Brian Hoffman is a classically trained actor who is now a full-time tour guide, blogger, and food obsessive. He leads food and drink tours around New York City, which not only introduce tour-goers to delicious food, but gives them a historical context. He also writes food articles for Gothamist and Midtown Lunch in addition to overseeing this blog and a few food video series, including Eat This, Locals Know, and Around the World in One City.