Dumplings

FRY ME UP, LITTLE DUMPLIN’ (Fried Dumplings – Inexpensive Delicacies Company)

SADLY, FRIED DUMPLINGS IS NOW CLOSED.

When a restaurant names themselves after a specific menu item,  it had better be good. I don’t know any pizzeria that touts the name: “Pepperoni Pizza” or “Margherita Pizza”. To name yourself after one dish almost alienates everything else on your menu. I don’t think I would ever order a brownie at a place called “Chocolate Chip Cookie”.

So it didn’t surprise me too much when I discovered that the best dish at Fried Dumplings in the Lower East Side was in fact their fried dumplings. But that didn’t stop me from ordering the boiled dumplings as well. And a bottle of water. I’m relieved this place isn’t named “Diet Pepsi”.

Fried Dumplings recently re-opened on Allen Street after a tragic (to the foodie blog world) eviction. There’s also a second, smaller, sketchier location in the heart of Chinatown. But I decided to track down the original on the edge of Chinatown and the Lower East Side where the clientele is much more diverse. It was all Chinese speaking guests when I first arrived and by the time I left, I saw some hipsters, a couple of middle aged tourists, and a horde of school kids descend on the storefront to get a taste of their ridiculously cheap dumplings.

This is another of the famous $1 dumpling joints. So I spent less than 5 dollars and had plenty of food. I’m starting to love this dumpling journey.

The fried dumplings were ready in a snap. The lady literally took them off the grill, put them on a plate, and handed them to me. I was a bit skeptical about how fresh and hot they would be. But I didn’t hesitate. Somebody hands me food and I’m going to taste it.

I made my way to the small bar area (there are actually roomy tables as well even though the storefront is rather small) and my heart sank again. I began making judgments about this place before tasting anything and they were not good judgments. I noticed next to the chop sticks and hot sauce were packets of soy sauce. Packets?? I know most packaged soy sauces in this country are not soy at all – they’re basically black sugar water. At the other spots I’ve been to, the soy sauce is in bigger bottles and has a vinegar flavor. Not sure where those come from either, but the cliched packets made me think of bad Chinese take-out. This isn’t going well so far.

But I am so pleased to say that everything changed when I took my first bite of those titular dumplings. They were quite hot and crispy without much grease. And I was amazed at the juicy interior. I almost thought these were soup dumplings for a second. The thick but tender wrapper gave way to a warm gingery meaty filling.

The boiled version wasn’t quite as good (this place is called FRIED Dumpling, after all), but they were still enjoyable. These too had a juicy center and I had to quickly wipe up the dumpling juice I embarrassingly squirted across the table. The pork chive filling was just as fresh as the fried versions, but I found these wrappers a little chewier.

And after a few dumplings, I stopped using the packaged soy sauce. I felt these guys were so flavorful they really didn’t need the black salt water. Maybe a hint of hot sauce, but even that wasn’t really necessary.

While enjoying the dumplings, I looked down at the counter and noticed the menu listed another name for this place: Inexpensive Delicacies Company. Hm. Well, whatever the name of this place is, they not only practice serving good fried dumplings, but also truth in advertising.

Does Fried Dumplings (Inexpensive Delicacies Company) have the best dumplings in NY? Even though looks may be deceiving, their namesake dumplings are fantastic and they get an 8 out of 10 for making delicious boiled ones as well.

FRIED DUMPLINGS (INEXPENSIVE DELICACIES COMPANY)
99 Allen Street (between Delancey and Broome Street)
Lower East Side
(212) 941-9975

AboutBrian Hoffman

Brian Hoffman is a classically trained actor who is now a full-time tour guide, blogger, and food obsessive. He leads food and drink tours around New York City, which not only introduce tour-goers to delicious food, but gives them a historical context. He also writes food articles for Gothamist and Midtown Lunch in addition to overseeing this blog and a few food video series, including Eat This, Locals Know, and Around the World in One City.