Corned Beef and Pastrami

THE BRONX IS UP (Liebman’s Deli)

There haven’t been too many surprises on my corned beef/pastrami journey. The popular spots have pretty much been the best and the ones that don’t get as much love, aren’t quite as good. But way up in the suburban Jewish community of Riverdale, in the Bronx, I found a deli far from the crowds at Carnegie and the frenzy of Katz’s. And it was surprisingly very very good.

Liebman’s Kosher Delicatessen is in the middle of a really quaint suburban street in the older Jewish neighborhood of Riverdale. Walking up 235th Street, I passed classic bakeries, butchers, and bagels shops. I felt like I was lost in one of the shopping centers of my hometown in South Florida. Which is ironic, of course, because most of those shopping centers were probably built to feel like places like this. And here I was, a Native Floridian, who had that displaced Jewish NY experience growing up and now that I was actually in New York, I yearned for the nostalgic old days… in Florida??? Oy vey!

Whatever the reason, when I entered Liebman’s, I felt right at home. Some of the other delis seem overly forced in their design and desire to re-create the generic deli experience. Some are so big that they come across as cold and untouchable. Liebman’s has been around since 1953 and just does deli. They’re warm, comfortable, and familiar, and once you taste the food, they capture all those nostalgic feelings once again.

The corned beef/pastrami sandwich arrived smoking hot. The rye bread was toasty and soft making a warm, calming pillow for my artery-clogging experience. Both meats (which are homemade) were great. The corned beef was well-marbled and so tender. It melted away like butter. The pastrami had a definite smoke flavor and the spices were peppery and strong. Here was a sandwich where I could really taste the distinct flavors of both corned beef and pastrami, And they worked together (with that great bread and some mustard) beautifully.

I get so full on these sandwiches that there’s never room for anything else. I got a good look at both their menu and their deli counter and am eager to return to this wonderful little gem. Problem is The Bronx is not the most convenient borough for me. And before I arrived on this hidden little street, I had to either take an express bus or the 1 train, followed by a hike up a long flight of Rocky-like urban stairs. Too bad I didn’t take the climb after the sandwich. It might have helped burn off all those calories.

But the calorie count was well worth it here. The quality and flavor of this sandwich was superior to many of the more popular spots in Manhattan. Maybe it’s because the same family has run Liebman’s since the beginning. Maybe it’s because they cure, pickle, and smoke their own meat. Maybe it’s because it’s so far away from the pressures of Manhattan. Whatever the reason, I’m going to have to start finding excuses to come up to the Bronx. What a surprise!

Is Liebman’s Kosher Delicatessen the best corned beef/pastrami in NY? A surprising 9 out of 10 for their great combo sandwich and comfortable authentic environment.

AboutBrian Hoffman

Brian Hoffman is a classically trained actor who is now a full-time tour guide, blogger, and food obsessive. He leads food and drink tours around New York City, which not only introduce tour-goers to delicious food, but gives them a historical context. He also writes food articles for Gothamist and Midtown Lunch in addition to overseeing this blog and a few food video series, including Eat This, Locals Know, and Around the World in One City.

2 Comments

  1. A Dangerous Idea,” a four minute short, provocative and funny film, with a clever “oy veh” ending, examines a dilemma one NYC Muslim deli owner faced!

    Click on to the YouTube link to view the video that explores the pork rind debate:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BZ-xmkGXV3A

    Hope you are able to share with your visitors.

    Thank you!

  2. Disappointing. Very disappointing.

    After reading so many positive reviews, I took what I imagined was a mild leap of faith and placed a delivery order. There is a $20 minimum for deliveries. Due to the fact that their prices are so high, I was able to meet this minimum without much fanfare. After all, I reasoned, I could probably spread out my order across two or three meals.

    Some background: I’ve lived and worked in New York City for over 35 years, and I’ve sampled from the best-of-the-best Kosher Delis.

    I was savoring a genuine turkey-breast sandwich. So, that’s what I ordered. Turkey sandwich on rye with cranberries and gravy on the side, potato pancake with apple sauce on the side, and chicken soup.

    First, I acknowledge that, in my own interest, I should have asked more questions while placing my ordere. I don’t like making assumptions but, in the case of a publicly revered Kosher Deli, I was willing to circumvent my own culinary rules.

    Little did I know that Liebman’s serves chicken noodle soup at a premium price without…hold on…chicken. I’ve had better from freeze-dried Lipton.

    Second, the turkey sandwich was virtually inedible. Not only was it not genuine turkey breast, it was processed and pressed turkey loaf, the main ingredient being salt. The only saving grace for this sandwich is that it was smaller than one might find in a school cafeteria, so there was less low-grade deli “meat” to ingest. Worse, at $8.50, a sandwich that’s advertised as containing “turkey breast,” goes well beyond false advertising. It was so disgusting that, for my own health and well-being, I threw most of it in the trash.

    Next — and I don’t know how any establishment that serves food can do this, even if they were trying – they served both cranberries and apple sauce that had virtually no taste. As with the sandwich, because the size of these sides were miniscule, the offense was marginally bearable.

    Finally, I had no problems with the potato pancakes and gravy, and the delivery was fast.

    Total tab?

    — Processed turkey sandwich for a Munchkin.
    — Two potato pancakes.
    — A small chicken soup with no chicken.
    — Two, 12-ounce cans of soda.

    — $24.95, before tip.

    I will never order food from Liebman’s again.

    If there is a person or people in your life with whom you feel a need to exact revenge then, by all means, recommend Liebman’s to them. Sometimes, revenge is indeed a dish best served cold. And sometimes it’s a dish served inedible and overpriced.

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