I’m not going to spend too much time reviewing the new restaurant Kutsher’s, which just opened a few weeks ago in Tribeca, for a number of reasons. First off, I’m really only including them on this blog because they do serve pastrami. Secondly, they’ve been opened just under a month and I understand it takes time to get the restaurant on its feet. And finally, it really wasn’t very good when I went.

You may recognize the name Kutsher’s as the historic country club/restaurant up in the Catskills. If you don’t, odds are your parents or your grandparents do. The restaurant up there is known for Jewish comfort food in a kosher setting. Nothing fancy, just classic stuff.

The new Kutsher’s, which is backed by the original owner’s son is sort of the opposite of that. It’s not kosher and the food is refined, hip versions of those Jewish classics. The ambiance is strange in the new restaurant. If you squint, you’d think you were at a Jewish diner circa 1970, but the lights are dim, the staff is attractive, and the music is all wrong (they were playing 90′s alternative rock and the owner annoyingly kept changing the soundtrack mid-song).

We ordered a bunch of appetizers (Jewish food is supposed to be appetizing, right?) and there were a few hits and misses (mostly misses). Everything was severely overpriced and overall, I think this sort of food has never been successfully refined for a reason. This is rustic food for sustenance, it’s really pointless to refine it.

Alright, enough already. I said I wouldn’t critique the restaurant itself and I already got way too involved. Let me get back to the pastrami. It was one of the options on their Delicatessen Platter, along with some deli staples like tongue, chopped liver, and spicy salami. We picked three options (for a hefty $16), yet due to some miscommunication in the kitchen, we received four.

Nobody explained to us which meat was which and when I asked the manager (who turned out to be the owner himself), he wasn’t sure either. Well, I think there were two types of pastrami on the plate: flat and deckle. The menu hinted that they were one in the same, but the owner told us otherwise. He also told us the leaner one was deckle. Um, I don’t think so. I know deckle is the fatty cut of brisket and, flat, I believe is the leaner one. So if it’s one in the same, shouldn’t it just be pastrami? Oy vey! Whatever.

Well, I’m not sure which was which, but one (I assume the deckle) was much better than the other. The first one we tasted was dry and tough! Even the mustard and rye bread couldn’t liven it up. It was so tough, I had to use my fingers to pull this apart and I actually exerted force. This should never happen at a Jewish restaurant. We don’t want to do work!

The other cut of pastrami resembled corned beer and was slightly better since it had some more juicy fat marbled throughout, but it too was lacking much flavor beyond that. And the idea of eating small slices of pastrami on slices of toast seemed totally inappropriate. I don’t need an over-the-top deli sandwich, but Jewish comfort food should not be refined to small, dainty portions. It just doesn’t make sense.

Alright, I think I’ve hinted enough at my disappointment at Kutsher’s. Perhaps it will get better with time (the early online reviews have been mostly positive). And I realize it wasn’t time to review them yet. But based on that experience, I don’t really want to go back.

Is Kutsher’s the best corned beef/pastrami in NY? Well, they only serve the pastrami and in a much different setting than the classics. But the meat is on the dry side and one cut was almost inedibly tough. So forgetting the other disappointments in our meal, the meat gets a paltry 5 out of 10.

NUMBER 65: BLACK TRUFFLE AND SEA SALT CHOCOLATE from MAST BROTHERS

The black truffles in the chocolate bars from Mast Brothers, which is a bean-to-bar chocolatier based in Williamsburg, are not the French candy variety. Rather these are real black truffles. The kind you may get with your fancy pasta. Mushrooms. That’s right. This is mushroom chocolate.

And it is incredible. The black truffles give this chocolate a deep, rich earthy flavor that plays in to the bittersweet frutiness of the dark chocolate. The salt rounds it out and not only works on the sweet salty front, but also plays up the sea and earth flavors. This seasonal bar is available at the storefront in Brooklyn and many grocers around the city. Unless you have a mushroom or chocolate allergy (God forbid), you must give this a taste. Price Varies

NUMBER 64: ROBIOLA WITH EGGPLANT CROSTATA at DEL POSTO

Hopefully I already convinced you on the wonders of chocolate and mushrooms. But chocolate and eggplant? And cheese? This might be the wackiest savory sweet combination of all. Yet it’s one of the most delicious.

This was served to us as a cheese course during a spectacular lunch this year at Del Posto. The expertly fried fritter was stuffed with tender eggplant, served with sweet, melty robiola cheese and drizzled with just the right amount of rich, decadent dark chocolate. This was heavenly. The flavors worked so well together. The eggplant contributed sweet, soft textures and if I hadn’t known any better, I might have mistaken it for banana. Oh, now you’re on board!?!

NUMBER 63: COLD SMOKED CORN SOUP at DO OR DINE

Even if I didn’t know the owners of Do or Dine, it would have been high on my destination list. Justin, George, and Luke were friends of mine from when we worked at The Modern together. They have wacky ideas and fun personalities with an eye for flavor and hospitality. And the fact that none of them are trained chefs was not a reason to deter them from creating some of the most exciting and creative food I’ve tasted the entire year.

We didn’t try the now infamous Foie Gras Doughnut (it will be ordered on a future visit), but I fell in love with their seasonal soup that is now sadly no longer on the menu. What a crazy concoction that delighted my tastebuds and played with my mind! A roasted corn and chipotle puree took care of the sweet and spicy balance. But then more layers were added with sweet honeydew cubes and surprisingly subtle Crunch and Munch (the poor man’s Cracker Jacks) croutons. The soup is smoked with a hand smoker and the hickory aromas are released at the presentation, making this a full-sensory experience. And I’m not just being biased, believe me.

NUMBER 62: BACON POPCORN at SALT & FAT

To some it might not seem so strange, but I can assure you to all naysayers that bacon popcorn is delicious. Especially the way they serve it at Salt & Fat, a newish neighborhood spot in Sunnyside, Queens with Korean and Southern influences. I loved the entire meal at my recent visit, but the one thing I couldn’t get out of my head was the complimentary bag of bacon popcorn.

The popcorn is popped in bacon fat, which could make for a very greasy and heavy flavor. But these are surprisingly light and addicting. The bacon flavors are fully present, but not overpowering. It adds smoky, umami notes to the already buttery and salty popcorn. This bag disappeared in a matter of minutes and it was to my delight (and detriment) that the server was only too willing to bring us a re-fill. It’s a perfect way to open up a meal of salt and fat (which is much more pleasant and refined than it sounds). Price: Complimentary with Meal

NUMBER 61: KATZ’S PASTRAMI EGG ROLL at REDFARM

Chinese and Jewish culture have been intertwined since the early days of the Lower East Side. And there are still some great Cantonese restaurants down there serving up egg rolls and the like. And of course, so is Katz’s Deli, which makes some of, if not the, best pastrami in the entire city. So you’d think it would be a natural fit to combine the two flavors. Yet nobody in this city has tried something as outlandish (and obvious) as the egg roll at the new high end Chinese gastropub RedFarm.

This classic Chinese American appetizer is given the kosher treatment with the addition of some generous slices of Katz’s tender, smoky pastrami. Along with the meat, Chef Joe Ng fills the fried egg roll with cabbage and hot chilis. A tangy honey mustard sauce on the side cuts all that delectable fat. They make for a great starter to a consistently creative and delicious meal at RedFarm. Price: $7

There’s a photograph on the wall at Jay and Lloyd’s from the 1940′s that shows dozens of deli men at an association meeting together. They were all happy and seemingly good natured. And they all owned delis in New York. Unfortunately, a big meeting like that can’t happen in this city any more because there are now just a handful of old Jewish delicatessens left. And many of them are no longer independently owned.

But when I started talking to Lloyd Lederman and he showed me around his restaurant, I realized the passion and dedication of these deli men is still alive. Lloyd has been working in delis pretty much his whole life. There are also photos of him with his father and grandfather at the family’s former delis. In 1993, Lloyd opened Jay and Lloyd’s (with his partner Jay) on Avenue U in Sheepshead Bay, Brooklyn, quite a schlep from the subway.

I was surprised this place is only 18 years old because it has the feel of a much older, classic Jewish deli. Perhaps it’s the vintage photographs on the wall celebrating the culture, perhaps it was the pastel pink color scheme, or perhaps it was the genial staff and passionate owner.

I didn’t meet Lloyd until after I finished my sandwich, so I’m confident I got the same treatment as everybody else. Although after Lloyd discovered I had a blog, he offered me complimentary homemade apricot rugelach (you can taste the difference) and whipped up a sample of his zucchini pancakes, which had a sweeter, earthier flavor than the typical potato variety.  He was also more than eager to pose for a photo with his signature hot dog hat (they’ve received much attention for their kosher franks).

But I was here specifically for their corned beef and pastrami sandwich. They had been on my radar during my official deli meat search, but I just never found the right moment to travel all the way out here. I had some time on a Saturday afternoon recently and I hadn’t stuffed myself on deli food in quite a while, so I figured my arteries could use the work out.

The place was rather empty when I showed up. It was a little after lunch on a very hot weekend, so maybe some people were at the beach. Or I guess, this kind of comfort food is not the usual light summer fare. Or it could be because the neighborhood has changed from being mainly Jews and Italians to being predominantly Vietnamese. Regardless, I was treated politely and waited on like at a real restaurant.

This is one of the few delis where customer service is evident and the waiters seem to care about your experience. I didn’t waste any time and I ordered their Classic (the corned beef/pastrami combo). Lloyd later mentioned his Smokin’ Joe sandwich which is extra smoked pastrami that is then char-grilled. I sort of wish I had tried that. But my Classic was pretty classic.

The cole slaw and pickles that came out were incredibly fresh and flavorful. Both types of pickles were crispy and full of flavor (one was sour and garlicky; the other was sweeter and salty) and the cole slaw was creamy without being overwhelmed by the mayo. And then came my sandwich. I had asked for a half sandwich, which some delis are more resistant about then others. The waitress told me they have a Jr. version with less meat. That was perfect for me, since I’m trying to watch my boyish figure, you know.

The sandwich came out very hot, almost cooking the soft rye bread. I opened it up to douse on the mustard and realized this was the perfect amount of meat. The first bite was warm and buttery, the meat melting away to some notes of garlic, pepper, and plenty of salt. I found the corned beef pretty exceptional – it was flaky and tender and truly fell apart to the touch. I thought the pastrami was a little bit tougher. It had lots of layers of fat (as pastrami tends to) but didn’t fall apart as easily. And the pepper notes were a little overwhelmed by the buttery fat and the salt.

But it was a good sandwich and just what I needed (my doctor would disagree), since I hadn’t eaten one of these things in months. But meeting the passionate and generous Lloyd and having a true old-fashioned deli experience in Brooklyn, is worth any trip to the doctor. Although, I bet he’s glad there are no longer hundreds of Jewish delis in NY for me to slowly kill myself eating.

Is Jay and Lloyd’s the best corned beef/pastrami in NY? They get an 8 of 10 for their incredibly tender corned beef, comfortable service and atmosphere, and interesting takes on classic kosher food (that zucchini pancake was truly something), not to mention Lloyd’s entertaining shenanigans and love for what he does.

And it was Ted who IMed me one day to let me know that National Pastrami Day (January 14) was approaching. I have a tough enough time keeping track of President’s Day and Columbus Day, so you can imagine that this is the first I had heard about National Pastrami Day. I learned it was started by sandwich chain Togo’s, which is less manipulative than Hallmark’s holiday creations, but still rather silly. Regardless, I took Ted’s advice and decided to get myself a pastrami sandwich in honor of the holiday.

One of the delis I never made it to on my journey is Berger’s in midtown and since I had to be in midtown for a tour, it was a no-brainer where I should celebrate National Pastrami Day, although I bet Togo would have liked me to commence the eating festivities at one of their establishments. It’s their holiday after all. I don’t think there are any Togo’s locations in the city and even if there were, I probably would not think of them as a pastrami destination. Sorry, Togo’s.

Berger’s used to be a classic deli in the Diamond District. It catered to the kosher community for over 50 years, but unfortunately shuttered in 2006. I actually got to go to the original years ago and felt right at home. It wasn’t as extravagant or delicious as Katz’s, but it had a more modest old school charm. I was terribly sad to hear it closed.

But the good news is that Berger’s was re-born on 39th Street. The bad news is that it has none of that old fashioned character that made it so wonderful. Now it looks much like any generic sandwich chain in midtown (ie, PAX or Europa Cafe), which I imagine is why it doesn’t get nearly the amount of press it would if it maintained the feeling of a Jewish grandmother’s kitchen. Now it may as well be called Togo. The sign outside even calls it Berger’s on the Go. Where have all our Jewish delis gone?

The counter felt very sterile and I was confused as to where to order. Besides deli sandwiches, you can now get wraps, paninis, and build your own salads. I convinced the guys to give me a corned beef/pastrami combo sandwich in a half size. Even though this was a holiday, I still need to keep my boyish figure. It blows my mind how impossible it is for them to do this. I offered to pay extra, which finally convinced them, but how hard is it to make a combo half size?

The guys at the cash register seemed like they came from that old school deli world, so that was comforting. And so was the price. Even though I paid extra, the half sandwich still only cost me $6.25. That’s ridiculously cheap for a corned beef and pastrami sandwich in this town.

I took the sandwich to a nearby indoor public space (that’s the beauty of midtown). It was freezing outside, so I imagine I did a little harm to the heat of the meat. It wasn’t completely cold when I unwrapped it, but it was also not as warm as I expect. The meat still managed to melt in my mouth and impart quite a bit of flavor. The pastrami had a smoky saltiness and the corned beef had some nice garlicky savoriness.

But both meats were rather greasy. I’m not sure if it had to do with the temperature change, but there was a shiny film on the meat as if it had been soaked in fat. It even caused the rye bread to go soggy rather quickly. And as the sandwich came to an end, the meat got even colder (I was inside by now) and it felt like I was eating cold fat. This was a real shame because the flavors were strong and I enjoyed the sandwich at the beginning of the meal. I wonder if I would have had a different experience if I had ignored the restaurant’s name and didn’t take “on the go”.

All in all, it was a pretty good Pastrami Day except for the fact that I didn’t get any cards or texts or anything. I hope Ted’s holiday consisted of better deli meats and more presents.

Is Berger’s On The Go the best corned beef/pastrami in NY? I enjoyed the flavor of the meat despite some grease and temperature issues and since dining in the shop at one of the few tables might be a different experience, I can’t give them less than 7 out of 10.

5. TOMATO COURSE at THE KITCHEN AT BROOKLYN FARE

4. SMOKED MEAT SANDWICH at MILE END

3. KUMAMOTO TASTING at LE BERNARDIN

2. YUBA AND UNI YOSHINO-STYLE at KYO YA

1. RICOTTA GNOCCHI at UNION SQUARE CAFE

45. CHOPPED LIVER at SAMMY’S ROUMANIAN STEAK HOUSE

I remember (as every good Jewish boy does) growing up having chopped liver out on the table with the veggies and potato chips at family gatherings. Now ours was most likely store bought (sorry Mom!) and I remember eating it on some Ritz crackers. And although I had difficulty stomaching that metallic, livery flavor, I was hungry (dinner was still cooking) and it was there, so I ate it.

If it wasn’t for Time Out’s list, I probably wouldn’t have tried the chopped liver at Sammy’s Roumanian, a New York institution, with live music, dancing and rich Jewish food. It’s like a Long Island Bar Mitzvah in the ’70′s. Seriously!

I may have been converted because that chopped liver was creamy and rich and didn’t have that overwhelming metallic bite. Maybe it was the schmaltz (chicken fat) that balanced the flavors. It was crunchy from the fried radishes and onions and it worked so well on the warm bread. I’m not sure if it’s because my palate has matured or because Sammy’s knows how to sweeten a previously daunting dish, but I loved this stuff. Not that I really need to find a reason to eat it – it’s not like these are lima beans. Price: $19.95

44. OYSTER PAN ROAST at GRAND CENTRAL OYSTER BAR

43. CORNED BEEF/PASTRAMI COMBO at KATZ’S DELICATESSEN

Katz’s is the oldest delicatessen in the city (dating from 1888) and it just reeks of New York history (and cured meat). It’s a must-stop for any visiting friends or family members and I’m always eager to take them there.

I predictably crowned it the best corned beef/pastrami sandwich in the city on my official journey this past year. And anybody who’s been there can understand why. Ordering a sandwich at Katz’s is more than just lunch, it’s an entire show. First the waiting in line with your ticket, then the excitement of watching the carvers slice up the meat, and finally basking in the comfort of the perfect deli sandwich.

It’s not too big, but big enough so that if you’re disciplined, you might have leftovers. The corned beef is tender, salty, and hearty. The pastrami also falls apart and has a deeper spice and smoke flavor than most of the other big delis in the city. Even when I don’t order it extra lean, I find the fat is cut just perfectly and the marbling runs deep enough to add lots of flavor but not overwhelm you with grease.

It’s the most exciting corned beef/pastrami combo in the city. Trust me, I’ve done the research. Price: $15.90

42. MATZOH BALL SOUP at CAFE EDISON

I’m just not a fan of diners. Although I think most of my family would choose to eat at one every day, if possible. Other than a craving for a grilled cheese sandwich or an omlette, I’d never choose to go to a diner over a proper restaurant. Unless it was Cafe Edison.

I first learned about this old-school hotel cafe (it’s inside Hotel Edison) in the middle of Times Square when I saw Neil Simon’s Broadway flop 45 Seconds to Broadway. The play was rather forgettable, but it was all about this magical diner where Broadway legends hung out, wrote plays, did deals, and ate Russian comfort food. Shortly thereafter I learned this place actually existed and it has since become my Times Square breakfast spot (if I’m ever up early enough) or cheap lunch destination when running late for the theater.

Or my place to stop to get a quick bowl of matzoh ball soup. It practically arrives before I order it and the broth is usually spilling out of the bowl. One gigantic matzoh ball is fluffy and filling with lots of dill flavor. The hot chicken broth is rich and comforting, bursting with seasonings and aromas. The noodles are soft and fatty. And the best part is that you also get chunks of dark chicken meat floating around.

I come here when it’s cold out, when it’s warm out, when I’m sick, when I’m healthy, basically whenever I’m hungry for a little taste of home comfort. Price: $3.95

41. PIZZA at DI FARA

After my official search for the best pizza in NY, people always ask me what I discovered. And while it’s hard to crown a best (it depends what you like), I always mention Di Fara as my favorite pizza experience.

Dom DeMarco is a legend in the pizza world and he’s been making all the pies at his little take-out joint DiFara in Midwood, Brooklyn for over 40 years. The experience of taking the Q train all the way out to Midwood, waiting to order your pizza, and watching Dom take his sweet time in composing the beast is all part of the fun. And I haven’t even gotten to the best part: tasting the damn thing.

The pies are a bit more expensive than most New York pizzerias, but it’s so worth it. De Marco uses three different types of mozzarella, fresh parmesan, sweet homemade tomato sauce, and snips fresh basil. The pizza is miraculously cooked in a gas oven, but still gets an incredibly complex char and crust.

It’s the perfect combination of ingredients to make what is definitely one of the best pizzas in New York. Price: $5 (slice), $25 (pie)

But one group that seems to appreciate the stuff is the African American community. David Sax mentions this in his book Save the Deli as surviving delicatessens in places like Detroit, New Jersey, or Chicago notice that their clientele is changing from older Jewish eaters to African American diners.

So I guess it’s not surprising that an almost 40 year old Jewish deli is surviving on the streets of Bedford-Stuyvesant, a predominantly African American neighborhood. David’s Brisket House has been a religious venture from the beginning. It is now owned by a Muslim family (who bought it from a Jewish family) so instead of closing completely on Saturdays (for the Sabbath) they now only close for a few hours on Friday for prayer. And they tend to close early so we found the perfect time on a Saturday afternoon.

The huge sign out front made me think this would be a Katz’s size restaurant with bus boys and matzoh ball soups flying everywhere. Not the case. This place is tiny with maybe two small tables in the back and one long narrow deli counter. The employees were happy to hear we were dining in (I’m sure it is mainly take-out here) and they delivered our food to us.

We ordered the brisket sandwich (since it was on my Time Out list) and the corned beef/pastrami combo. At $13, this combo sandwich is the most affordable in the city. And it comes with a free drink! It might not be as comically massive as Carnegie’s, but it’s still enough for at least two meals.

The rye bread was fresh and soft. And the meat was really good. I don’t know why my expectations were low for a place so far away from the tourists, but I really loved their meat. The pastrami was smoky and just fatty enough to melt in your mouth but not overwhelm my arteries (who am I kidding?). The corned beef was a lot leaner but still had a lot of garlicky, salty brine flavor. The only major downfall was the limp and overly sour pickle that accompanied the sandwich.

I’m pretty sure visiting kids from middle America won’t make it out to David’s Brisket House. That’s probably best for us locals to keep this little gem to ourselves. But if deli meat this fresh and flavorful existed across the country (maybe replacing all those McDonald’s), I think we might be able to save a dying cuisine.

Is David’s Brisket House the best corned beef/pastrami in NY? It’s a great little gem in the heart of Brooklyn. And even though I give it an 8 out of 10, I’m hesitant to tell anybody because it’s one of those places you want to keep to yourself.

No question that the smoked meat from Mile End was where I would go. I got in touch with Rae Cohen and Noah Bernamoff, the owners of this new Montreal restaurant in Boerum Hill, Brooklyn. They were so incredibly nice and gracious to allow me to spend a weekend eating and filming this little video.

So here it is, my audition video. For the record, I don’t think I got the part as I should have heard by now. But it was a fun experience (it was the main reason I shaved my beard) and I learned a lot so that when the next cable show comes calling, I’m ready to book it!

The Big Apple BBQ gets a lot of press in June, but on Sunday, July 11, the first public Meatopia will take place on Governor’s Island. It should be an excitingly delicious afternoon of meat, music, meat, contests, and more meat.

One of my favorite things, as many of you know, is walking around food events and just tasting as much as I can. There will be 30 chefs participating making dishes as varied as whole roasted lamb and grilled bacon sandwiches. And with a $25 ticket, you’re guaranteed three tastes from the chefs of your choice. Bring a friend, each buy a ticket, and then taste as much as you can.

Among others, Noah Bernamoff from Mile End (who makes an amazing smoked meat sandwich) will be slicing his briskets and Sam Barbieri from Waterfront Ale House will be making a house cured pastrami and smoked brisket. I just might be inspired to write another pastrami review.

For a list of all the chefs and their meat menus, check out the website. The festival lasts from 11:30 to 4:30 so that should be plenty of time to sample as much as possible. Plus, Sixpoint Brewery will be selling special brewskies for the event, including a smoked beer (one of my favorites).

It will all happen just a ferry ride away from Manhattan (or Brooklyn). Let’s just hope this heat cools off a bit so we can really enjoy gorging ourselves on pork, beef, and lamb! And maybe some chicken while we’re at it.

Hope to see you all on Sunday!

But now, I’d rather not see the fat. I guess I’m just as bad as the carnivore who doesn’t want to know where his meat comes from. And I do have a hard time watching a lamb being butchered. I don’t want to think about the fact that my hamburger was once grazing around a farm. So I prefer fat that is well-marbled throughout rather than a big chunk of fat on the side of my meat. I would never eat the leftover lard from a prime rib, but would have no problem devouring a well-dispersed and marbled kobe steak.

The fat on the corned beef at Mill Basin Kosher Delicatessen was pretty dispersed but it seemed to almost overwhelm the meat. There were little nuggets of deliciously buttery pickled meat, but the fat definitely outweighed the protein. The pastrami didn’t seem quite as fatty, but the smoky spicy flavors were there and scrumptious.

I had been wanting to come to Mill Basin earlier on my journey, but it takes some commitment and time to get out here. It’s all the way on the outskirts of Brooklyn. There isn’t even a subway that comes directly to the restaurant. I had to take a subway to a bus and watch the Brooklyn neighborhoods change for a good thirty to forty minutes. You can’t forget how big this city is (counting all five boroughs)! The ride out to Mill Basin was pleasant enough, but it was difficult finding my way back as the direct bus stop was tough to find and I had to take another bus and transfer to another subway station. And as long as that took, I could have walked and burned off some of those calories.

When I did arrive at Mill Basin, which is located in the very quaint and suburban neighborhood of the same name (it’s on Avenue T, if that gives you any sense of how far it is), I was surprised and impressed by how crowded it was on a weekday afternoon. It was so removed from the city that it reminded me of the suburban delis in South Florida that I grew up on. But as soon as I entered, the intense aromas of pickled meat pervaded the air and I realized I was in fact within the five boroughs.

One of the cool (kitschy?) things about this deli is that they are also a full-on modern art gallery. The owners have collected works of such famous artists as Marc Chagall and Roy Lichtenstein. So instead of having a collection of celebrity photos hanging on all the walls, there’s real art! You can experience a nirvana of great comfort food while critiquing the works of Erte.

Besides the fatty corned beef (which some would look at as a good thing), my only real complaint was that the pickles and cole slaw were not automatically delivered to the table. The bus boy asked me if I wanted them. Seriously? Maybe they’re trying to prevent waste, but this is a Jewish deli. That’s like asking if you want cheese on your pizza.

I should also mention the latke chips. I read about them before coming out to Mill Basin and even though I had already ordered enough fat calories, I figured I wasn’t sure when I would get out here again so just had to try them. And I’m very glad I did. They were a creative treat. The latkes are sliced thin and fried until crispy so that they really are somewhere between a pancake and a potato chip. Greasy doesn’t do it justice, but delicious will suffice.

And with all that fat and greasy, I left satisfied (if a bit bloated). No wonder I fell asleep on the subway ride home. And I dreamt of deli sandwiches, Art Deco, and long commutes.

Is Mill Basin Deli the best corned beef/pastrami in NY? The corned beef is a bit fatty for my tastes, but it tastes great and the pastrami’s deep flavors helped round out the sandwich. With an 8 out of 10 score, it’s close to a work of art.