PIZZA REVIEW: Arcade Bakery

My search for the best pizza in New York continues….

SADLY, ARCADE BAKERY IS NOW CLOSED.

Arcade Bakery makes me want to start a new pizza category. We have Sicilian, Neapolitan, Roman, Chicago, etc. But nobody is really talking about bakery pizza. And maybe we should.

I’ve had pizza in a traditional bakery before but it’s never been as breathtaking as the pies they’re serving at the hidden Arcade Bakery.

Walk into the lobby of 220 Church Street and your nose will do the rest. This new French-style bakery is nestled into the lobby and in addition to baguettes and croissants, they’re serving sandwiches and personal pizzas. I think I need to get a job in this office building. And stat!

The previous pizzas I’ve ordered in a bakery are usually a slice or a flatbread. This was an entire personal pie for $9 and looked like a classic Neapolitan-style with a crisp, pillowy cornicone. I chose the most classic (although they also offer two different topping options).

I didn’t even notice the tomato sauce and cheese because I was so into the crust. To be honest, it’s generally my least favorite part of the pizza but here it was all about the bread. The sweet tomato sauce, lonely basil sprigs, and dots of mozzarella cheese were fine, but oh my god, that bread!!!

The rich softness of the olive-oil slicked crust made me wonder if there was cheese inside the crust (there wasn’t). Each bite revealed a warm yeasty interior and I got lost in the doughy bites contemplating the beauty of life itself. Cheese and tomato? Who needs it?

This pizza was far superior to the square slices at Sullivan Street Bakery and the classic Sicilian specimens at Rose & Joe’s. And the dough makes it better than most pizzeria restaurants anywhere. Arcade both defines and exceeds the new style of bakery pizza. Let’s make it a thing.

Is Arcade Bakery the best pizza in NY? It might be the best bread in New York and the fact that they put some tomato sauce, mozzarella, and basil on it makes it a phenomenal pizza. 9 out of 10.