PIZZA REVIEW: Tufino Pizzeria

My search for the best pizza in New York continues….

There’s always been good pizza in Astoria (Rizzo’s, Rose & Joe’s), but until recently it was lacking a legitimate wood-fired oven Neapolitan pizza restaurant. That’s since changed with the addition of three pizzerias serving the real stuff.

Unfortunately, this all started happening after I begrudgingly moved out of the neighborhood. The only one I’ve been able to try thus far is on Ditmars Avenue and it was pretty good. Maybe not destination-worthy, but good enough for a neighborhood spot.

It’s called Tufino and it seems like a nice restaurant for family outings or for romantic dates. Service was solid and the menu, from a Paulie Gee protege, features both pizzas traditional and creative (like the Il Greco with fontina, kalamata olives, oregano, and lemon juice) and an entire section devoted to fried things, like rice balls, calamari, fried pizza, and even fried pasta.

I was alone so while the entire menu was tempting, I couldn’t take it down myself. Instead of experimenting, I decided to play it safe and see how Tufino does the traditional margherita.

The pizza came out quickly with a blackened char all around and underneath. However, the slices were a little soft when manhandled. There was something about the peppery tomato sauce that was too heavy and thick. I think it weighed the pizza down and caused an imperfect crust.

All the other ingredients were spot-on, especially the rich homemade fior de latte and I enjoyed the flavor of the dough. There also could have been more basil to help balance that intense tomato sauce.

I’m curious to try the less traditional pies here (especially one without tomato sauce) and see how they fare. I’m also curious now to re-explore Astoria’s pizza scene and see how Tufino stacks up against places like Milkflower and Basil Brick Oven Pizza.

Is Tufino the best pizza in NY? Its tomato sauce really holds it back, but it’s a fine wood-oven pie in a neighborhood that needed one and will do in a pinch. 7 out of 10.